MAVROMATIC - DIY: Part I -- Replacing Rear Rotors and Brake Pads on a Land Rover Discovery II

Monday, March 5, 2007

DIY: Part I — Replacing Rear Rotors and Brake Pads on a Land Rover Discovery II

Related Entries: DIY

I used to take my truck into the dealer to get it serviced, which over charged me and coincidently would cause other things break. Now I try to do most work myself. The brake pads and rotors (front and back) on my 2001 Land Rover Discovery II needed replacement. I ordered genuine parts from the nice guys over at Rovers North for almost half of what the dealer wanted to charge me (just for parts!). You will need the following part numbers for the rear: SDB000470 (rotor, you will need two of these), SFP500130 (pair of pads). The pads come with replacement bolts, but remember to also order two replacement rotor placement screws since you will probably strip it when you remove the old one — like I did. In part 1, I will be showing how to replace the rear pads and rotors. Part 2, will be about the front, which should be very similar to the back. Let’s get started…

Getting Started
Changing brakes and rotors is a messy job. You will need the following tools:

Jack Stand (for safety), Pump Jack, Gloves, Hammer, Impact Driver with #4 bit, 12mm 6pt Socket, 12mm Wrench, 13mm 12pt Socket, 13mm Wrench, Tire Bolt Wrench, C-Clamp, Brake Cleaner and some WD40.

If you are just changing you brake pads, you will be done in about 15 mins. Just skip down to the “Brake Pad Replacement” section.

Rotor Replacement
The first thing I did was remove the rotor placement screw since that is where most of your time will be spent. This was the hardest part when replacing my Discovery brake disc (rotor). I used a Craftsman Impact Driver with a #4 bit and just pounded it until it loosened. The rear driver side screw completely stripped which made it even harder. I used an oversized slot bit (included with the Impact Driver) and pound on it until it released.

Using the Impact Driver To Remove Screw

What a stripped screw looks like.

Once you get the screw loose, remove the caliper mounting bolts. These are the 13mm 12pt bolts. Make sure you have a 13mm 12pt socket or a 13mm combo wrench since these bolts are also pretty hard to loosen. I used a little WD40 to help it a bit.

When you have the caliper removed, tie it up or place it on a 5 gal bucket. Then pull the rotor off. If it doesn’t come off easily, you will need to remove the mud guard which is held on by 3 small bolts. Then just tap it with a hammer to loosen. When you have removed the old rotor, clean the mount and install the new rotor and screw.

Reattach the caliper with the 13mm bolts and you have finished your rotor replacement!

Brake Pad Replacement
Changing your brake pads is very easy… you just need the 12mm socket and 12mm wrench (depending on which one works better for you).

You will need to remove one of the 12mm caliper brake housing bolts, I do the lower rear first. The caliper will pop up (from the force of the brake pad spring). Pivot the caliper up. You will need to compress the piston. Using a C-Clamp, slowly and evenly compress the piston. You may need to remove some brake fluid from the reservoir to avoid overspill.

Once you have compressed the piston install the new brake pads and pivot down the caliper over the pads. You might need to compress the piston more if it doesn’t fit over the pads. Use the new bolts which came with the pads, replacing the other bolt as well.

That’s it! You have just completed your brake pad replacement. Now turn your engine on and pump your brakes a few times and take the truck out for a spin. You will smell burning of brand new rotors and pads, since it is burning the paint off the rotor.

Update: DIY front rotors and brakes is posted here.

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COMMENTS

Posted by Willi at March 5, 2007 1:52 PM

I changed the brake pads and rotors on two vehicles - a VW bug and and old Benz. After both jobs I ended up seeking professional help. I hope your mileage varies from mine ;)

Posted by Ariff at March 5, 2007 2:07 PM

Awesome! Just for future reference:

PB Blaster (an aerosol) is fantastic at loosening seized bolts.

Latex gloves are great at keeping your hands clean (and for the occasional health examination).

Mechanix gloves are even better - and protect your hands nicely without affecting dexterity too much.

Did you bed the brakes and rotors properly?

Posted by Max at March 5, 2007 3:03 PM

Danny, I hope you don’t die in a firey ball one day when your wheels fall off or your brakes fail you. ;)

Posted by Willi at March 7, 2007 8:53 AM

Danny, are you still alive? Danny?

Posted by Danny Mavromatis at March 7, 2007 2:22 PM

Still here guys…

Posted by Paul at May 28, 2007 6:07 PM

Great writeup. Will help a lot

I belive the rotor placement screws are posi-drive (as most of the screws on a LR are) and not philips (although they look similar). These screws do strip easily, so the point is usually moot. A philips might work ok if the screw is not frozen into the rotor.

If no brake fluid has been topped off since the last brake job, there should be no spillage i. If it is topped off….you can always clamp the flex line and open the bleeder to get the extra fluid out when you press the piston back.

Posted by robinson at November 14, 2007 3:34 PM

great instruction, it helped me prepair. the screw that holds the rotors in place are used in the assembly process. the screw helps center rotor prior to wheel installment. not required, the 5 (five lugs that weight about 1 pound per are enough to hold rotor in place.

Posted by Jim DiLisio at December 9, 2007 9:10 AM

I am about to embark on new rotors & pads for my 2000 Disco II. I have another pending problem. The ABS, TC and Down Hill warning lights are lit on my dash. I have read that this is likely the ABS sensor, probably front. When I do brakes, how can I find out if left or right sensor is bad? Are they easy to install?