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Let’s face it, technology has been good to us, but it also has taken away many classic art forms. For example, before we had computerized vinyl cut lettering, we had classic sign painters. These people were amazing, they could paint numbers and letters perfectly… without stencils or templates. Before I started working for The Walt Disney Company I worked at a smaller web design firm that was located in the heart of Pioneer Square in Seattle. It’s in the historic district so all the buildings have many classic elements that we rarely see these days. Remember the black outlined, gold leaf foil lettering on office doors? The ones that would read, “Private”, or “Office”. Those are the ones I recreated on my office door. Now, I’m not really into gold, so I used copper instead. You can use real gold, silver, platinum, or any type of foil leaf you can find. I thought it would be a great detail to add my address on the glass above my office door. My address is 326, but to make it fun, I made up a new address for my office. 326 1/2… it is.
In the following post, I’m going to show you my attempt at doing this classic lettering technique on glass… I hope it’s something you’ll try doing in your home or office.
Step 1: Creating the template — Since I’m not a professional freehand sign painter, I needed to create a template so I can easily paint inside the lines. I decided the best way to achieve a perfect outline is by using today’s technologies. Yup, the very ones that killed this technique, a vinyl cut lettering machine. I fired up Adobe Illustrator and found a font I liked. I chose the classic font, Clarendon. I adjusted it a bit (squashed it by a few pixels) until I got it exactly the right size and look. Next, I stroked the font until I got a thick enough outline and then converted the strokes to outlines. Make sure you check it out in “Preview” mode, the vinyl cut machines are like PC Board machines where they use Gerber files, so if you want an outline you need to have two lines (an outside and an inside), the machines can’t read stroke widths.
Next, I emailed my file to my local FedEx Kinkos and had them produce a few templates for me on black vinyl. Remember, to tell them to remove the outline before they apply the sign placement masking tape, since that is where you will be painting onto the glass.
Step 2: Applying the Template — Next, follow the instructions FedEx Kinkos gave you with the vinyl (be sure to clean the glass surface with alcohol before applying the template). You will also get a yellow applicator to help you remove any air bubbles. Make sure you get the edges a stuck to the glass then remove the placement masking tape. You will be left with the vinyl and an outline of the lettering revealing the glass.
Here is a photo of my placement:
The masking tape is removed revealing the outline and glass below:
Step 3: Painting and Leafing — This part requires the most patience. I took an extra precaution and applied masking tape around the area so I didn’t get any paint on any other areas. I used black Delta Craft Air-Dry PermEnamel found at your local craft store (be sure to also use the PermEnamal Step 1 conditioner) and applied it using a 1/4″ wide brush. This is the only stuff I found that sticks to glass. I applied about 4-5 coats. Next, I ordered a copper leaf kit from Dick Blick and removed the inner vinyl from the lettering. I applied the leafing adhesive very carefully with a small tipped art paint brush. Follow the instructions in the kit. I applied two layers of leaf and then applied the included satin sealer. When that is all done, you can carefully remove all the vinyl.
The end result:
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No vinyl cut lettering even compares to what this looks like. It takes you back to a time where people had talent and actually created things directly with their hands. If you end up using my technique or you have some photos of a similar approach, I’d love for you to email me some photos.
View Comments (8)
Nicely done. You never cease to amaze.
Nicely done. You never cease to amaze.
found this somewhat helpful altho I don't have the luxury of the kinkos,Im going to have to wing it!But thanks for being so kind as to posting this info.Im painting old casement windows to look like saloon windows and Im eager to gold leaf some lettering!
found this somewhat helpful altho I don't have the luxury of the kinkos,Im going to have to wing it!But thanks for being so kind as to posting this info.Im painting old casement windows to look like saloon windows and Im eager to gold leaf some lettering!
Hi Kiddo, Igrew up running around old buildings in Flagstaff Arizona. When I was very young, about 6 or 7, I asked my Father how they did the numbers on the windows. He explained the process and lifted me up to see both the front and the back. Your design looks good but it misses one important part. The black is a background and not merely an outline. The artists painted the numbers in black first and then applied the foil over them. The same technique was used for the doors of the Post Office Boxes. They also used a black lacquer paint. The modern lacquers don't have quite the same luster due to governmental regulation. The original lacquer paint was developed after WW1 to deplete America's over-supply of explosives. Lacquer paints derived from these explosives could be returned to an explosives grade material with some fairly simple chemistry such as used to be taught in High School Chemistry class. In order to prevent this they made "Acrylic Lacquers" which cannot be rendered into explosives and, alas, do not have the luster and fragility of old lacquer paints. About forty years ago I did some old style lettering and numbering for my Grandfather's painting business. It has been a long danged time since I did any but tonight my wife asked me to teach her how to do leafing. So I began to dredge the old memory for the how-to's and what-for's. About fifteen years ago I went to a close-out of the local hobby shop and they had a bunch of leafing materials for a price that I just could not resist. I dug them out of one of my storage sheds and gave them to her. Then I decided that I want to use leafing to label my spice jars and the search engine brought up your site so here is my two cents worth. Hopefully this wasn't too long and boring. Thanks for reading. Good Night!
Millam,
Great story!! Thanks for the details... the copper leaf I did is holding up great... I opted to not do that solid black back and an outline instead because I want the backside of the glass to show the copper as well. I can see how the correct method would hold up better due to the solid back. Thanks for the tips and inside info.
Cheers!
Danny
Hi Kiddo, Igrew up running around old buildings in Flagstaff Arizona. When I was very young, about 6 or 7, I asked my Father how they did the numbers on the windows. He explained the process and lifted me up to see both the front and the back. Your design looks good but it misses one important part. The black is a background and not merely an outline. The artists painted the numbers in black first and then applied the foil over them. The same technique was used for the doors of the Post Office Boxes. They also used a black lacquer paint. The modern lacquers don't have quite the same luster due to governmental regulation. The original lacquer paint was developed after WW1 to deplete America's over-supply of explosives. Lacquer paints derived from these explosives could be returned to an explosives grade material with some fairly simple chemistry such as used to be taught in High School Chemistry class. In order to prevent this they made "Acrylic Lacquers" which cannot be rendered into explosives and, alas, do not have the luster and fragility of old lacquer paints. About forty years ago I did some old style lettering and numbering for my Grandfather's painting business. It has been a long danged time since I did any but tonight my wife asked me to teach her how to do leafing. So I began to dredge the old memory for the how-to's and what-for's. About fifteen years ago I went to a close-out of the local hobby shop and they had a bunch of leafing materials for a price that I just could not resist. I dug them out of one of my storage sheds and gave them to her. Then I decided that I want to use leafing to label my spice jars and the search engine brought up your site so here is my two cents worth. Hopefully this wasn't too long and boring. Thanks for reading. Good Night!
Millam,
Great story!! Thanks for the details... the copper leaf I did is holding up great... I opted to not do that solid black back and an outline instead because I want the backside of the glass to show the copper as well. I can see how the correct method would hold up better due to the solid back. Thanks for the tips and inside info.
Cheers!
Danny