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Land Rover

2016 Land Rover Range Rover TD6 Fuel Economy Review

Automobiles, Videos
May 31, 2016 No Comments

Land Rover — at least in the North American market — has gotten a bad reputation for it’s fuel economy over the years. I’ve owned a Land Rover since 1997 (before they were status symbol vehicles) and I would even call myself a Land Rover enthusiast. So when Land Rover announced they were bringing a Turbo Diesel V6 engine to North America I placed my order. I’m now a proud owner of a 2016 Range Rover TD6 — it’s the engine we should have had back in my 1998 Discovery!

After a little over 1700 miles on clock, my best “journey” is 32.8MPG. Not bad for a truck that has gotten 12-14MPG in the past. Average with City driving is about 24.5/25MPG which is inline with what Land Rover/EPA states the average MPG would be. I’m impressed — great job LR!

Hope this video can change peoples perspective that a capable 4×4 like the Range Rover is now on it’s way to being more eco-friendly and fuel efficient than years past models.

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2010 Range Rover Features 12″ LCD Instrument Cluster

May 12, 2009 22 Comments

2010 Range Rover

2010 Range Rover Cluster

The 2010 Range Rover will feature a 12″ TFT LCD instrument cluster which has traditionally been analog dials — I think this is really, really, really cool!  You can see in the above photo how this display will look. Using a LCD screen Land Rover can change the display based on the type of mode the car is in as well as offer a menuing system — this would have been a sweet project to been a part of!   Being a Land Rover enthusiast myself, I love how they kept with the look and feel of the current analog dials.  I can’t wait to see this technology in all cars. 

The new display technology used by the 2010 Range Rover is a major advance. It gives us tremendous flexibility in presenting information, so that the driver gets precisely the data they require, in all driving conditions,” explains Nick Rogers, Chief Engineer, New Vehicle Architecture.

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DIY: Part II — Replacing Front Rotors and Brake Pads on a Land Rover Discovery II

Automobiles, DIY
March 18, 2007 7 Comments

In Part I, I changed the rear rotors and pads of my Land Rover Discovery II. Last weekend, I tackled Part II, changing the front set. The process isn’t much different than the back except that the caliper and pads are much bigger.


The only additional tools you will need from the rear change is a 19mm 12pt socket with a short extension. The caliper is bigger, so are the bolts holding it. Also, you will need to be a bit careful with the ABS sensor. There is a mounting that holds the sensor in place, you will need to gently remove the wire from the mounting plate so you can get your socket wrench to the bolt. Once you remove the caliper, compressing the piston (two of them) and brake pads is exactly the same as the rear.

Completed front rotor and brake pads
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DIY: Part I — Replacing Rear Rotors and Brake Pads on a Land Rover Discovery II

Automobiles, DIY
March 5, 2007 29 Comments

I used to take my truck into the dealer to get it serviced, which over charged me and coincidently would cause other things break. Now I try to do most work myself. The brake pads and rotors (front and back) on my 2001 Land Rover Discovery II needed replacement. I ordered genuine parts from the nice guys over at Rovers North for almost half of what the dealer wanted to charge me (just for parts!). You will need the following part numbers for the rear: SDB000470 (rotor, you will need two of these), SFP500130 (pair of pads). The pads come with replacement bolts, but remember to also order two replacement rotor placement screws since you will probably strip it when you remove the old one — like I did. In part 1, I will be showing how to replace the rear pads and rotors. Part 2, will be about the front, which should be very similar to the back. Let’s get started…

Getting Started
Changing brakes and rotors is a messy job. You will need the following tools:


Jack Stand (for safety), Pump Jack, Gloves, Hammer, Impact Driver with #4 bit, 12mm 6pt Socket, 12mm Wrench, 13mm 12pt Socket, 13mm Wrench, Tire Bolt Wrench, C-Clamp, Brake Cleaner and some WD40.

If you are just changing you brake pads, you will be done in about 15 mins. Just skip down to the “Brake Pad Replacement” section.

Rotor Replacement
The first thing I did was remove the rotor placement screw since that is where most of your time will be spent. This was the hardest part when replacing my Discovery brake disc (rotor). I used a Craftsman Impact Driver with a #4 bit and just pounded it until it loosened. The rear driver side screw completely stripped which made it even harder. I used an oversized slot bit (included with the Impact Driver) and pound on it until it released.

Using the Impact Driver To Remove Screw
What a stripped screw looks like.

Once you get the screw loose, remove the caliper mounting bolts. These are the 13mm 12pt bolts. Make sure you have a 13mm 12pt socket or a 13mm combo wrench since these bolts are also pretty hard to loosen. I used a little WD40 to help it a bit.


When you have the caliper removed, tie it up or place it on a 5 gal bucket. Then pull the rotor off. If it doesn’t come off easily, you will need to remove the mud guard which is held on by 3 small bolts. Then just tap it with a hammer to loosen. When you have removed the old rotor, clean the mount and install the new rotor and screw.


Reattach the caliper with the 13mm bolts and you have finished your rotor replacement!

Brake Pad Replacement
Changing your brake pads is very easy… you just need the 12mm socket and 12mm wrench (depending on which one works better for you).


You will need to remove one of the 12mm caliper brake housing bolts, I do the lower rear first. The caliper will pop up (from the force of the brake pad spring). Pivot the caliper up. You will need to compress the piston. Using a C-Clamp, slowly and evenly compress the piston. You may need to remove some brake fluid from the reservoir to avoid overspill.


Once you have compressed the piston install the new brake pads and pivot down the caliper over the pads. You might need to compress the piston more if it doesn’t fit over the pads. Use the new bolts which came with the pads, replacing the other bolt as well.


That’s it! You have just completed your brake pad replacement. Now turn your engine on and pump your brakes a few times and take the truck out for a spin. You will smell burning of brand new rotors and pads, since it is burning the paint off the rotor.

Update: DIY front rotors and brakes is posted here.

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